In this log I cover my trip from Solomons, MD, to Beaufort, NC. Most of this leg I had to motor but some parts lent themselves to sailing. As usual I've included too much detail for some tastes, and not enough for others.

The route take is as shown below.

My route down from Solomons, MD, to Beaufort, NC.

And the narrative follows.

28 Oct 09, Wednesday
Anchored in Belle Crk, MD (N37° 41.421' W076° 20.033')
Trip: 50nm, Total: 50nm Engine: 2257hrs

I departed Solomons, MD just after dawn this morning. Actually I was up at about 4-AM and could not get back to sleep. Even though most of my friends consider yesterday's departure from Patuxent River Marina as the official start of this winter's voyage, I'm still not convinced. I traveled a whole 3 miles yesterday and it was to the north, not toward warmer weather.

Calm morning on the Patuxent River as I depart Solomons, MD

I sailed down the bay all day without incident, excitement, or really any fun. Once or twice I was inclined to run the engine. But the same overheating problem that Galena has suffered for the past few weeks was still plaguing me. So I sailed as much as possible. And when I motored I did so at just a little over idle.

I had considered stopping somewhere different this year. Every year on the trip south I stop here at Belle Creek, just off Indian Creek, which is just north of Windmill Point. It's a tiny little anchorage; room for only two or three boats. But there is usually no one else here. At the most I've seen one other vessel anchored here. And while I'd be a bit exposed to the south, winds were forecast to continue to be out of the north and northeast.

Galena at Belle Creek

I came in, anchored, put Galena to bed, and almost immediately went to sleep myself. I had the usual perfectly flat, calm night.

29 Oct 09, Thursday
Anchored at Hospital Pt, Norfolk, VA (ICW Mile Zero) (N36° 50.765' W076° 18.010')
Trip: 53nm, Total: 103nm, Engine: 2265hrs

I departed Belle Creek just after dawn. There was a bit of wind this time; every other morning I've departed this anchorage I've been stunned by the silent, still, beauty of the place. i.e.: No Wind.

Now I feel like I'm really on my way south. As such I'm starting to get into living off-the-grid again. Things like leaving the cell phone off.

Here's the thing: part of this lifestyle that many of my friends find…. What's the word? Arrogant? Selfish? …is that I do exactly what I want and on my schedule (weather permitting, of course). Part of that philosophy includes leaving a place as well as going to a place. When I leave a place I sometimes leave everything that's there… there.

I arrive at Norfolk late in the day. I'm motoring down the Elizabeth River past the Naval Base and all the big warships. We have some very cool warships. The security boats keep pace with me as I move along. I like to think that they are simply bored but I know that if I were to suddenly turn toward those aircraft carriers they would cut me and my little craft to pieces with that .50 cal Browning on their bow. I'm careful about course corrections here.

I find Hospital point and the 20 other boats already anchored there. This is just at the start of the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway (ICW); in fact it's just about exactly at Mile Zero. Many boat's insurance constraints include that they will not be south of Norfolk before November 1 of any given year (the official end of hurricane season). So the hole-up in marinas and anchorages here in Norfolk and Hampton until then.

I anchor in 30-ft of water next to a familiar boat: s/v Lady Slipper. I've seen LS several times in the past few years at places like Beaufort, NC, Lake Worth, FL, et al. But I've never met the captain.

I spent a relatively quiet night at anchor there. Norfolk would never be called 'quiet' and it's never dark there. All night I was rocked by wakes and whistles and lights as boats plied the river.

30 Oct - 02 Nov 2009 (Friday-Monday)
North Carolina Welcome Center, Dismal Swamp Canal, NC (N36° 40.413' W076° 21.365')
Trip: 24nm, Total: 127nm, Engine: 2271hrs

With the closure of the Jordan Lift bridge I have only one drawbridge between me and the cutoff for the Dismal Swamp. I wan to make the 0830 opening of the Gilmerton Bridge. They were doing repairs on that bridge and were not opening very often during the day. In addition, the bridge would be closed to river traffic all weekend. My reduced motoring speed allowed just about everyone to pass me on the 6-mile run to the bridge.

To make the 0830 opening I had to be underway by 0715. I just made it. As usual I procrastinated a lot of prep the night before. I had left the dinghy in the water and I wanted it on deck for the run down the ICW. I had left my sail-covers off and really wanted them on, since I would not be sailing for the next few days. All of this had to be done when I got up. And of course I had to hoist anchor and get underway.

I made the bridge and shortly there after (ICW Mile 10) I made the turn toward the Dismal Swamp. I was the only one in the 15 or so boats coming down the river that made that turn. Someone radioed me saying that they had heard that the swamp route was closed. I didn't respond and hoped they were wrong. I know that Capt Ron (s/v Lastdance) had gone through a few days ago. But I heard no radio traffic from the lock tenders. Finally I arrived at the lock (about 0930 hrs) and called the tenders to let them know I was standing by for their next (1100 hrs) opening. They said "Ok" so I knew I was good to go. I had a long wait so I dropped the main anchor and went below to make breakfast.

While I was below several other boats joined me waiting at the locks.

At 1015 or so the locks opened and we motored in. I was the last on the starboard side. We had about 8 boats in the lock. I've seen as many as 13 with the last three center-moored. I was happy to be the last out of the lock as my overheating engine may cause me to go even slower than usual. There's no room to pass anyone on the Dismal Swamp Canal and I didn't want to hold up anyone.

At the risk of sounding more arrogant than normal I must say that I have never seen so many inept line handlers as I saw in the lock that morning. Consider this: you know you are going to tie up in a lock. You should know that you will need fenders out (to protect your boat from the walls of the lock) and you will need lines to run from your boat to the bollards and clears on the sides of the lock (to hold you in position while locking up or down).

As a single-hander, I try to get all lines and fenders ready before I get to the lock. I don't know which side of the lock I'll be assigned so I get lines and fenders ready on both sides of the boat. I know that the lockmaster wants to take a loop of rope around the bollard and that both ends will be on Galena: on secured to a mooring cleat, the other in my hand. The end in my hand I can keep tension on to keep Galena against the wall while I lock up or down. And when it's time to go, I can slip the lines myself and be off. As I enter the lock, the lockmaster comes by with a boat hook and lifts the loop of line from the bow cleat (which I've left looped over a lifeline so he can see it and grab It) and drops it over a bollard. Same for the stern line. I'm left holding two ends of two lines and he moves on to the next boat.

What I see all along the other side of the lock is people handing the lockmaster a coil of rope…. Not even attached to their boat!!! Or they hand him an end of a line. Over and over he says, "Give me a loop of line; one end attached to your boat, the other in your hand." It seem no one is prepared. He glances over at me and we both just shake our heads.

At the last minute, a very small motor boat came into the lock. I moved up a bit and m/v Whisper tied up behind me. Dale and Carla. Carla had the same misunderstand about the lines and fenders as everyone else that day. She stood there telling me over and over how embarrassed she was over her bad line handling. Because she was very cute I told her not to worry; everyone does that the first few times they come through here.

Finally, we locked up and were discharged into the canal. I told Dale that I was going to be traveling slowly and he should get around me as soon as possible. In face he went around me in the lock.

Another thing about the northern lock of the Dismal Swamp Canal is that there is a bridge just a half mile down the canal from the lock. The lock master is also the bridge tender. When everyone is out of the lock he hops in his pickup truck (they always have pickup truck, you know) and goes to the bridge and opens it.

This means that once everyone is out of the lock we should slow down and give him time to get there. But some/most didn't read that information in the guides and while I'm idling forward people are racing by me at full speed. One boat seemed no to see that all the boats ahead of me were stopped. As he powered by me I yelled at him to cut it back; that everyone is stopped; that there's a bridge ahead. Now this is a very narrow canal and there is scant room for maneuvering. When boats get too close together there's bound to be trouble. I was backing away from the fray as the boats turned into the muddy banks rather than into each other.

Finally we were through the bridge and I watched as the crowd of boats moved away down the canal.

As it was I was able to maintain about 4.5-kts most of the way. When I ran at 2500 rpm everything was ok, except that I was putting out a lot of steam from the exhaust; a clear indication that there was insufficient cooling water going into the mixing elbow. When I ran the engine at 2700 rpm I had only 2-minutes before the overheat alarm sounded. Backing down to 1000 rpm let the engine cool down and after a couple minutes the alarm went off and I resumed my 2500 rpm speed.

I arrived at the visitor center and rafted up third out and the north end.

The visitor center is just that: a standard highway visitor center (US 17 I think) with a small bulkhead dock where boats can tie up for a day or so. They have free internet, restrooms, and that's about it. Bad weather last year caused Ron and I to stay there for almost a week. This year the same thing happened. But it was only 4 days this year.

After the first night there, just about every other boat left. In the morning I moved to the south end of the dock and, for a while, was all alone.

Day 2 at Visitor Center, Dismal Swamp State Park, Galena is all alone on the dock

I wandered about and eventually went down to the little bridge that swings across the canal. There a lonely, lovely, bridge tender has the job of watching for boat traffic and then swinging the bridge out of the way before the boats get there.

Bridge with lovely tender watching for boats

I felt it was incumbent upon me to go keep her company for a bit.

The above lovely, lonely, bridge tender being harassed by lonely boater

When I asked what she was going to be when she grew up, she smiled and said, "Probably an old bridge tender standing right here looking for boats."

The morning lock opening at the north end of the canal spewed a bunch of boats. Two hours later they arrived at the visitor center. Some stopped to tie up.

I finally met Bill on s/v Lady Slipper. He also stayed there for a few days.

Bill of s/v Lady Slipper

One morning Bill and I were sitting on the dock having coffee when a guy walks down to the dock from the visitor center parking lot. He's looking at boats and we all say, 'Hi.' Turns out he has just bought a vintage motorboat, about 60-ft, wooden hull. The kind of thing you might expect to see FDR on. Beautiful boat. He has pictures (http://www.wildheartscharters.com). He said it needs a lot of work, but that that's what he does. Very cool, we say. We're talking and getting along fine when I ask when he expects to be finished with this boat. He says something like, "Well, my son will finish it for me." Huh? We ask. Roger says, "I only have a few months to live." What a horrible turn to the conversation. It seems Roger has all of his parts going bad at once. He wants to start this project for his son, also in the business.

I really liked Roger and was quite bummed out to find out he's dying. I don't know about you, but I just don't expect to get that kind of a jolt in the middle of a friendly conversation. I'm sure he's more bummed out than I. But at least he's had time to get used to the idea.

Dale and Carla (m/v Whisper) stopped by on their way back north (They were behind me in the lock). The tied up long enough for Dale to change fuel filters. During that time I was treated to a jug of chocolate milk and a bag of homemade chocolate chip cookies. It seems that Carla is not just a pretty face (well, she is certainly that, too).
When they left, they left a rather small hole in the stack of boats.
So when other boats started showing up they left that hole empty. Eventually we were three deep, and three wide, and had a hole in the middle. When s/v Hibiscus showed up I jokingly said, "Well, you could Med-moor here in this hole." To my surprise, she did just that. I'd never seen anything like it at the visitor center.

Hibiscus Med-moored behind Galena at the visitor center

Bill and I were invited to s/v Creola by Rick and Carol for dinner. We were served the most wonderful beef stew. Afterwards I taught them all how to play Dominoes (Mexican Train).

The next morning, s/v Creola departed the visitor center. In the process they came a little too close to the shoreline and took a piece of tree with them.

s/v Creola departing visitor center with bit of tree in spreaders

Bruce and Lin (s/v Alize) were a fun addition to those hanging out at the visitor center. They have a big catamaran that they want to sell. You can't tell from the picture below, but Bruce really was a fun guy. His wife, Lin, was a hoot. Always very quick with a salty comeback.

Bruce of s/v Alize

George and Kim (s/v Adagio) were also way too much fun.

When I went in to the visitor center to sign their guest book I noticed their book exchange. I had accumulated a dozen or so books that were in the 'already read' pile. So I said I would come back that day and do the book exchange. I also mentioned that it was my birthday (01 Nov). When I was finished exchanging my books the ladies who work there called me over and presented me with a little gift bag and birthday card. It was such a sweet thing. I was speechless.

Birthday Goodies from the Swamp Girls, Dismal Swamp Visitor Center.

In the bag were candies and toys and trinkets. I was very pleased.

I also had the great pleasure of finally meeting a Facebook Friend, Claudia (http://www.claudiaanghel.com/). A wonderful, effervescent girl on her way south with friend, John. We had 'talked' a few times on-line. She and John stopped by just long enough to say, "Hi" and then John whisked her away from me. What a lovely young lady.

Claudia

Claudia wants to sail single-handed from Florida to the Bahamas. I see no problem with that. She wants to talk with me more about my thoughts on single-handing and crossing the Stream to the Bahamas. I'll be looking forward to that, too.

Weather forecast is looking good for a Wednesday crossing of the Albemarle Sound. Most of us who have tarried at the visitor center have done so because there was just too much wind from the wrong direction to cross the sound. That meant the Elizabeth City would be full of boats also waiting. So we had elected to stay right here with our little community of travelers.

But now it was time to move on. So preparations were made. Departure times were discussed. Lock schedules were confirmed. Trash hauled out and lines shortened.

03 Nov 2009 (Tuesday)
Elizabeth City, NC.
Trip: 21nm, Total: 148nm

I departed for the lock a bit early. About an hour early it would seem. I arrived at the South Mills bridge, which is worked by the lock master, so early that I really didn't want to try to hold station in the canal. So I dropped my dinghy anchor and used it to hold Galena stationary while waiting for the bridge/lock.

Locking down the 8-ft to the river was uneventful. As usual it seemed to take forever. Finally I moved out and let everyone pass me (overheating, remember?).

The drive down the river was fairly quiet. For some reason Bill (s/v Lady Slipper stayed behind me all the way. Later he said, "I'm just in no hurry."

I get to Elizabeth City about 1530hrs. I had never been to the "Rose Buddies" free town dock. In fact I wasn't even sure where it was. As I came through the draw bridge I spotted a boat that had been with us at the visitor center and figured that was the free dock. Thy had several slips open but there was also space on the bulkhead. I pulled in there and was told that that area was usually reserved for catamarans. But when I said I was 11-ft wide, they said, 'Oh, Never mind." It seems their slips are rather narrow.

Lady Slipper came in behind me an took the last few feet of available wall space.

Charlotte came by to tell us about the welcome party at1630hrs. Free wine and snacks and beer. She is a lovely southern belle who takes her job as one of the Rose Buddy hostesses very seriously. I asked where I might get a beer now, and Charlotte, in that wonderful southern accent that I just love, directed me to a nearby pub. Bill and I headed over.

We were soon joined by George and Kim (s/v Adagio)

George, Kim, and myself at Elizabeth City, NC.

After a beer or three we all went out to the Rose Buddy reception. There we were entertained by the mayor of Elizabeth City. Well, I was entertained by Charlotte and Susan.

Rose Buddies, Charlotte and Susan at Elizabeth City, NC.

Bill and Luke and I stayed out pretty late. We hit all four bars a couple of times that night. Then we staggered back to our boats and passed out. I was invited to a wine tasting the next day (by a most beautiful bar tender) but when I awoke at 0600hrs I decided to just cast off and head out. So I did.

04 Nov 2009 (Wednesday)
Deep point, Alligator River, NC
Trip: 45nm, Total: 203nm Eng: 2284hrs

I left Elizabeth City at daybreak. As soon as I was away from the dock I raised sails and headed south toward the Albemarle Sound. There was only just enough wind to move Galena along at about 4-kts. But that would get me into this anchorage just before dark.

Several boats left town just after I did. All eventually raised at least a headsail. But they all were motor sailing as they pasted me.

The Albemarle Sound lived up to it's reputation and even in this light wind was unusually rough. I had not set the Aries wind steering vane for use before I left so I just hand-steered all day. I motored through the shoals at Middle Ground (just north of the swing bridge) and again through the bridge.

As I approached the Alligator River swing bridge I called for an opening. The bridge tender replied that he had people working on the mechanism and would not be able to open for 30 or 40 minutes. So I just anchored and made lunch. In about 30-minutes He called me and gave me a few minutes to raise anchor and then he opened the bridge as I started making way south.

Once I turned west and got into the lee of the headland at ICW mile 101 I had a smooth sail. All three of the boats that had passed me motor sailing out of Elizabeth City were anchored there. I picked a spot, setup my anchor trip line, and anchored in 9-ft of water.

On the radio I had heard and talked with Lee (s/v Krosna). He was a buddy from George Town, Exumas, Bahamas. He said he was heading for the same anchorage but would not arrive until after dark. I suggested that he raft up with me (this is almost always a very calm anchorage).

Lee said that his friend, Michelle, would cook dinner for us. He arrived about 1900-hrs and rafted up on Galena's starboard side. I had the pleasure of meeting Michelle who cooked a great meal. We had dinner, drinks, and played guitar till about 2200-hrs. As usual, we had a very, very quiet night.

05 Nov 09 (Thursday)
ICW Mile 159.8 (N 35° 121.557' W 076° 35.497')
Trip: 50nm, Total: 253nm, Eng: 2293hrs

I awoke at Deep Point and prattled about until I made enough noise to wake up Lee and Michelle. I had them over for coffee and we chatted about where we were going to anchor that night. Lee and I agreed it would all depend on how fast we could sail down the Pamlico River. Lee cast off from Galena and I raised anchor and followed him about a half hour later. Motoring down the canals I again had to hold back on my speed because of my engine cooling problems. Everyone was passing me… even other sailboats!

Once I was able to sail (once the canal turned into the Pamlico River) I had a rather riotous ride. Galena, with everything up (including her 130% Genoa) was surfing at 7.4-kts. Since her hull speed is only 7.1 that's a bit exciting.

During this brisk sail I actually started catching up with s/v Krosna. Lee later said that he was shocked when he looked back and saw a Westsail 32 charging down on him. He hardened up everything and started making max speed. He said he could tell that I was really pushing it since I was constantly dipping a rail into the water.

Almost passing s/v Krosna in the Pamlico River, NC

Once Lee started seriously sailing he pulled away. But I still closed to within a few hundred yards of him.

I waited too long to dowse the headsail. As I entered Goose Creek I found the wind just a little too close to the center-line of the channel. So I tried to lower the headsail; in the channel. By the time that I got the recalcitrant sail under control and on deck Galena has drifted out of channel and into 6-ft of water. I gave up and fired up the engine. I motor sailed the next mile or so and then dropped all sails.

Lee and I entered the little cove at ICW mile 159.8 and he decided it was just too 'open' for him. There were forecasts of 25-kt winds for that night. I decided to stay there and he went around the corner to Bear Creek. That night was almost completely calm.

06 - 13 Nov 09 (Friday - Friday)
Town Creek Marina, Beaufort, NC (N 35° 121.557' W 076° 35.497')
Trip: 37nm, Total: 290nm, Eng: 2300hrs
Fuel: 50 gal @ $2.59 = $140; Marina: $1.50/ft/day

I had a good sail down the Neuse River and into Adams Creek. I was making good time so I continued all the way to Beaufort, NC.

I stopped at Town Creek Marina for fuel and to see my buddy Ron and his lovely wife, Terry (s/v Lastdance).

I decided to take a slip. I know that's way out of character for me. But I did it. As it turned out that was a very good idea. I had some work to do on Galena. There was that persistent overheating problem as well as a couple of cracked chainplates that needed to be replace. A slip would make all that work a lot easier.

One of the cracked chainplates had an obvious crack visible on the outside. And it was radiating out from the uppermost bolt. So only half the chainplate was holding the shroud. (For all my non-sailboater friends out there, a chainplate is a long hunk of metal that bolts into the side of the hull. At the top end is a hole and into that hole goes the wires (shrouds) that hold up the mast. If a chainplate fails, the mast may well fall down.)

When I pulled off the chainplate I found not just the crack visible to the right of the bolt hole below, but also a crack on the left side of that bolt hole. In essence the chainplate was only held together by about 1/4" of steel. Way too close to the mast falling down.

Close-up of chainplate with two cracks highlighted by the arrows

Of course, reaching the nuts on the inside of the hull was not all that easy; nothing ever is on a boat.

Upside down, feet on commode, back on vanity, head in locker, arms up in bulwarks, just to reach a damned chainplate bolt.

Ron, Terry, and I went out for a drink. We headed up to the Back Street Pub, my all-time favorite bar in the world.

Lee and Michelle dropped by and said, "Hi" and met Ron and Terry. Michelle is not feeling well and is heading back home. Lee is looking for crew.

Michelle and Lee (s/v Krosna) at the Back Street Pub

Ron, Terry, and I ended up at the local wine bar (yes, I drink wine) where there was some great entertainment (besides Terry, that is).

Ron and Terry at the wine bar in Beaufort, NC

Finally I attached the cooling problem on Galena's little engine. It's a Yanmar 3GM30F. That's a nice, solid little diesel engine that should last a hundred years with even reasonable maintenance. I usually give it at least reasonable maintenance.

The only thing I have not done to solve this cooling problem is to remove and clean out the mixing elbow. The mixing elbow is the place where the cooling water that has gone through the heat exchanger gets injected into the exhaust hose. That place will get carboned up and needs to be cleaned out or replaced. I was unable to unscrew the elbow from the exhaust stack riser. So I took it over to the shop here at the marina. I gave the guy $20 and he put some heat to it and took a huge pipe wrench and spun it off. When I look inside the elbow I knew it was time to replace it. $108 later I have a new mixing elbow.

Galena's new mixing elbow

I changed the oil, flushed the coolant and called it a week. Now I'm waiting for weather to clear up so I can continue south to Key west.

I was still waiting for my raw water pump this morning. Zahniser's Yacht Services said the pump should be in today or tomorrow. But they said that yesterday, too.

Also this morning Pixie left ("Bye, Pixie"). She's been helping me for the past week as I put vehicles away for the winter and frantically tried to finish all the chores on Galena. She's driven me all over this corner of Maryland as I bought last minute items and essentially disconnected myself from this summer home.

Without her and her vehicle I wondered how I'd get from Pax River to Solomons to pick up my water pump when it comes in. I thought that while standing on the dock in my marina and looking across the river toward Solomons, just a mile away. Then I thought, 'Why not just motor Galena over there?' Duh! So this morning I cast off from my slip and motored the two miles north across the Paxtuxent river and up the creek to anchor here in Solomons.


Moved two whole miles today!


I called Zayniser's this morning and asked if the pump had come in. They said, "No. But... We do actually have one of those pumps on the shelf here." I was perplexed. They went on, "It was sent to us by Yanmar as a 'new' pump but it has obviously been installed and used. We're waiting to send it back to them." I asked how 'used' it was. They said they would ask Yanmar and get back to me. Half an hour later they called back. "This pump was used for a couple of hours on a test engine at Yanmar. Yanmar said it is still 'new.' We think it's 'used.' You want it? We'll give you $70 off if you take it off our hands." I hopped into my dink and motored my big wet butt over there (Weather has been a cold drizzle all day here).


My 'almost new' raw water pump.

So after warming up a bit, I'll install the pump, put away a few loose items, and be ready to head south in the morning.

I will head for Belle Creek (off Indian Crk, 50 nm south of here) tomorrow Then to Norfolk. There I'll decide whether to go the Dismal Swamp route or the (conventional) Virgina Cut route.

Question: Since I left my marina today but am heading south tomorrow, did my Winter Trip start today or tomorrow?

Engine Mounting Bracket Repair

While I was replacing the fuel tank on Galena I looked down and saw that the port, aft, engine mounting bracket had fractured. Sheared clean off!

This explained some of the strange vibrations and noises coming from the engine lately.

I was thinking I could fabricate a new bracket from metal from an old chainplate that I had laying about. But then, while having a beer with my old friends on s/v Moonlight Serenade, Bill said something about fabricating a new swim ladder. I remembered that he had all the welding and metalworking equipment in the world. We talked a bit and this morning I was at Billy Moonlight's house in Fredericksburg, VA with my broken bracket.


Billy Moonlight in his house near Fredericksburg, VA



The broken bracket and the not-broken one from the other side of the engine.

Bill said we should add a flange to the sides of the brackets. So that's what he did.



Billy Moonlight fixing my broken engine mount bracket


And the final form of the bracket.


Then I got myself folded up into the engine compartment and put the brackets back on the engine.



Yours truly folded into the engine compartment under the sole of the cockpit



The final placement of the improved engine mount Bracket

The two major projects for the summer turned out to be replacing a leaking fuel tank and fixing a broken engine mounting bracket.

The fuel tanks were fine until I returned from a little trip on my scooter. I returned to a serious smell of diesel fuel inside Galena. Finally I looked in the bilge and, yep, it was filled with fuel. I looked in the engine compartment and found diesel fuel dripping from the shelf that the port-side fuel tank set on. It ran from that shelf in the engine compartment down and forward into the area under the sink in the galley. From there it ran to the bilge through a floor hatch under the companionway ladder. What a mess.

I immediately began pumping fuel out of the port tank and into the starboard tank. But it would only hold an additional 10-gal of diesel fuel. I then pumped the fuel into my deck jugs (5-gal each) and finally emptied the leaking starboard side tank.

Over the past several years I had read several discussions about replacing leaking fuel tanks on Westsail 32's. Each was it's own little horror story. Each involved taking a saw to either the boat or the tank. From what I understand Westsail installed the tanks and then attached the deck. The tanks do not slide out from under the deck. They were never intended to do so. The only way to get the original tanks out is by cutting the tank into pieces or by cutting the shelf upon which it sits.

I ordered the new tank from Worldcruiser. Bud Taplin is the guru of Westsail. He was the production manager for Westsail and, after the demise of the company, Bud took over the support of the 800+ cruising Westsails out there. He has all the parts, knows all the original suppliers, and can tell you where every bolt is on any Westsail out there. We Westsail owners love him. Anyway, for $450 he had a custom-made aluminum tank made for me.

I tried. I really tried. I pulled and twisted an shoved and heaved on that old tank and could find no way for it to slip out over the shelf and under the edge of cockpit footwell. Aside: Every time I hear of someone who was successful in removing the tank it turns out that the tank removed was an after-market tank. Never have I heard of an original tank coming out with drastic measures.

Finally I grabbed the sawsall. I cut a swath across the face of the tank. Then one just below that. Then up and around from the right side, through the top, and down the left side. Finally the tank was thin enough to slide out.


Then I grabbed the new tank. (Well not quite just then. Actually I waited and studied and thought about the how that tank would go in for several days. No one procrastinates as well as I.) The tank is just about the same size as the floor of t cockpit. It drops in flat and lies on the top of the engine. Then you have to twist it just so to get it to slide up and under the deck.

Well, I pushed and pulled and twisted and, yes, cursed a bit. The tank would not "slide right in" as it was advertised by Bud. But Bud wouldn't lie to me, would he? I pulled the exhaust riser from the engine. I pulled the intake air filter from the engine. I pulled the cockpit drain hose off the through-hull. My pile of parts I had taken off the engine was growing along with my frustration.

Finally I thought, I should try turning it over and then rotating the tank up and into place.

Recall that this is the port-side fuel tank. If you're replacing a starboard side tank reverse everything.

I dropped the tank down through the cockpit floor with the bottom of the tank outboard (to port) and the fat, top, end of the tank to port (centerline). With the tank shoved as far forward as possible I started to rotate the tank counter-clockwise (viewed from the top). I rotated the tank 180 degrees counter-clockwise while pushing it as far forward and up as I could. After 90 degrees of rotation the tank was setting with the aft end up and way up into the area under the deck. The forward end of the tank was down on the top of the engine. With a lot of coaxing the aft end of the tank moved from "up" to "back' while the forward end moved from "down" to "forward."

Finally the tank was in the right position and just needed to be lifted up and set upon its shelf.



Once I hooked up the fill and vent hoses and screwed on the draw and return fittings I lifted the tank up into its final position and strapped and chocked it in place.

I actually accomplished something today.

Yesterday I rode down to the local Dept of Natural Resources. I had to register my dinghy. This is the Grumman aluminum dink that originally came with the big boat. But since it came as part of the original deal, I had no paperwork of any kind for it. No bill of sale, no title, nothing.

But there are procedures for such instances and after an hour or so I was all set. New title, new registration numbers and only $ 7 fee for taxes.

Today I affixed the new registration numbers and tax sticker.


Here's the dinghy hanging in the rigging sporting her new numbers

While working on that project I tore my shorts. So out comes the sewing kit and I finish off my morning coffee mending the shorts. While the sewing kit is out I repair a torn out grommet on the port-side sea curtain.


Here's the torn corner with the grommet that used to be there


I sewed the grommet in place and now it's ready to be used


Here the sea curtain is back in place and ready for another year of service.

This is the log and photo album from a most excellent adventure. A 6595-mi, 27-day motorcycle trip from Maryland to Sturgis, SD, and Las Vegas, NV and back.

Statistics:
6,595 Miles traveled. Total. Including side trips for sightseeing.
27 Days
14 Days of hard riding ("Gettin' there")
6,200 Highway miles
445 Miles per day, average, when traveling
53 Stops for fuel

4 Nights camping in my tent
17 Nights spent with family and friends
5 Nights in motels

22 States visited
8 T-Shirts bought


The trip went something like this:

( Click here for the full story and pictures )

(continued from part 1)

According to TripAdvisor.com:

Needles Highway (SD Highway 87 between Sylvan Lake and Legion Lake ) is located in Custer State Park in the Black Hills of western South Dakota.

The 14-mile scenic highway winds through pine, spruce and aspen forest under a vista of granite spires called “the Needles.” The route snakes through several small granite tunnels and past Sylvan Lake , featured in the 2007 movie “National Treasure: Book of Secrets.” 

South Dakota Governor Peter Norbeck (1917-1921) carefully planned the highway to provide scenic views without disrupting the natural setting. Needles Highway was completed in 1922.

The “Needles” area is popular with rock climbers, outdoor enthusiasts, sightseers and motorcycle enthusiasts. The drive is winding and slow speeds are recommended; visitors should allow 45 minutes to an hour to safely enjoy the views.  For more information about Custer State Park , see www.TravelSD.com/CusterStatePark .

Pasted from <http://www.tripadvisor.com/travel-g28962-d145070/south-dakota:united-states:needles.highway.html>

( Click here for the rest of the story... )

It's been almost three weeks since my last post and quite a lot has happened.
As I post this I'm anchored in Baltimore, MD and my winter voyage is now officially over. Just a Memorial Day raft-up with old friends from Kent Narrows and then I sail back to Pax River Naval Air Station where I'll prep Galena for this winter's trip south.


Now, where was I in this narration…

( Click here for pictures and text... )

...I'm now in Beaufort, NC.

When I left Lake Worth,FL, I was heading toward St Augustine, FL. Just a little overnighter. But the weather forecasts showed five good days to head further north. So I just turned Galena's bow a little to the east and headed up the Gulf Stream to Beaufort, NC.

Four days later, here I am. 544 miles is now my longest single-handed ocean transit. I'm getting the hang of this long-distance stuff. Now I'll just drive her up the ICW to the Bay. All of the exciting stuff is done for this winter's trip.

More to follow...

02 - 22 Apr 09

Sunday, April 12, 2009
7:58 PM

Perhaps this entry should start with something profound like, "Call me Ishmael..." Yes, it's that long.

You just go ahead and flip through the photos for now. Then, when you have a lot of time sit down with your favorite adult beverage and read about these few weeks aboard the good ship Galena.

This entry describes my departure from George Town, Exumas, and my motorsail to Long Island. I then wander through the Jumento Cays. Finally I make the "Big Turn" to the northwest and head back toward the Chesapeake Bay. This Winter's run toward the sun is almost over. But I'll make the voyage back as adventurous as I can.

( Click here for more text and pictures… )

And I'm still in George Town. I was going to leave, honestly! But my friend, Clay, of s/v Revel, asked why I was leaving. I didn't have a good reason except that I had been here several weeks. But with the regatta over and 2/3 of the boats gone this is a whole different kind of place. Clay suggested that things here in GT were just getting down to 'normal' and I should experience it for a while. Besides, said he, there's always another cold front coming along every few days.

So I'll stay a bit longer. How long? I have no idea.

( Click here for log and pictures... )

Just a quick note.

Weather window is opening up. In the next day or so I'm sailing east to Thompson Bay, then south through the Jumento's and Ragged Islands. Then, west through the Cay Sal Banks. Finally north to Miami and then back to the Chesapeake Bay. I should be back in the States within a few weeks.

I'll make the final post of George Town and the new stuff from the Raggeds when I get back to 'the world.'

Still in George Town, Exuma, Bahama Islands.

The weather has been cooler than past years; and windier, too. But the fun has been just about non-stop. The George Town Regatta is over as of today. Tonight is the final party at, of course, Regatta Point Park in George Town. Tonight is the variety show. Food, drink, and people doing silly things. How can that not be a good time.

But the weather may not cooperate. We've had scattered showers all day.

I'm looking at pointing Galena eastward again. I'll make a run to Long Island (Salt Pond/Thompson Bay) which is about 40 nm east of here. Then south through the 70 mile-long Jumento island chain. That puts me just 50nm north of the eastern tip of Cuba. From there I can make a long, 350nm run east and then north toward Miami. That route takes me along the Bahama Banks south and then west of Andros Island. Last year I went north from here through the Abacos. Heading south through the Jumentos will let me check the block on seeing just about all of the Bahama Island chains.

( Click here for my latest ship's log and a few pictures... )

I'm still in George Town, Exuma, Bahama Islands and have fallen into full "Island Mode." By that I mean while I have things to do, I do nothing. Everything can wait until tomorrow, since, except for the wind speed and direction, very little changes day to day around here.

I'm getting more and more involved with the cruising community here. In the past few visits I have stayed on the edges and just watched most of the activities. I'm playing volleyball just about every day. Good exercise and I'm actually getting a bit better; I don't suck as much as I used to.

I've even tried basket weaving once I confirmed with Sue (s/v Nice 'n Easy) that my testicles would not fall off if I wove a basket. I have not yet completed one, but I did learn how to do it. Now I just need to actually sit down and build a basket.

So, on to my day-by-day journal and a few photos that I've taken to try to document this place a bit better.
( Click here for text and pictures... )

I've made it to George Town, Exumas. Here I'll stay for a few weeks and enjoy the company of other cruisers while I decide where I'll go next.
( Click here for the log and pictures )

...Cay, that is. Deep in the Exuma island chain in the central Bahamas.
And now for a very long, and much delayed update...

( Click here for more text and a few pictures... )

24 - 29 Dec 08
Boot Key Harbor, Marathon, FL
Total: 1212 nm, Engine: 2076 hrs

I'm on a mooring ("U3") in Boot Key Harbor. Galena will be here for about 3-weeks while I visit with friends and party in Key West.

This morning I awoke to the same wind and weather that I saw when I went to sleep last night. The wind was still out of the east at about 20-kts with quickly passing light showers. I had anchored outside of the harbor because the weather forecast predicted diminishing winds for today.

( Click here for the rest of the story and a bunch of pictures... )

16 - 21 Dec 08
Miami Beach, FL
Anchored north of Belle Island
Trip: 78nm, Total: 1103nm, Engine: 2070hrs


Seabbatical 1 and Galena departed Lake Worth, FL, at about 1600hrs on 15 Dec.

The forecast was for east winds, 10-15kts, seas 2-4 ft. We were heading south so this sounded like a good window to make the move. Besides, we were all ready to go. I had hit the West Marine and the Publix so what else was there?

Galena was rafted up to Seabbatical, hanging off of her hook. The winds were very light at the time we left (east at 5 kts). Michelle and Clark dropped my lines and I drifted away.
( Click here for pictures and more narrative... )

30 Nov 08, Sunday
Charleston, SC

I found an error in a "how-to" book on celestial navigation. That might explain why, sometimes, I'm off by 50 miles or so. Next time I'm in sight of a clear horizon I'll see if my new understanding of the procedures will let me develop fixes that are a little closer to reality.
( Click here for a long, and long overdue, narrative describing the last few weeks. And a few pictures, too. )

..My teeth, that is. It's COLD here.

18 - 19 Nov 08
Anchored in Town Creek,
Beaufort, NC

I'm still just enjoying Beaufort. No real hurry to get underway. But, man, I've got to get further south! We have very high winds today (20-25 kts with gusts over 30) and it's quite cold (high of 47 today). We even had snow furies! Snow hasn't hit my face in years and here I am standing in snow. This is just so wrong!
( Read more... )