This was the first time I'd ever used epoxy and filler to join planks into a beam. I used way too much epoxy. When I started clamping the planks together the excess epoxy ran out and all over the place. I scraped off about a quarter of the epoxy I had mixed.
Also I failed to use any kind of release medium between the wood on the clamps and the wood of the bowsprit. I should have used kitchen plastic wrap at least. I thought of that when I saw the excess epoxy running over the wood of the clamps. I may have to saw/plane the outside.
- Location:At Home
- Mood:
optimistic
Designed by ![[info]](http://l-stat.livejournal.com/img/userinfo.gif)
chasethestars
chasethestars
Comments
Thanks,
David and Jill
sv My Star
W32 hull # 611
I came up with 55 lbs. That's not including the platform, pulpit, or any other hardware, bolts, anchor rollers, etc.
So, what does a new metal one from Bud weigh? Yes, you have to go out and weigh it. If I'm saving weight it would be a big plus. When cruising off shore I worry about having all that chain way up there in the bow. Anything to lighten her up there would be nice.
I considered going to Bud, but the cost was just too much. As I recall it was over $700 including shipping. So far I've got about $150 investing in this one. Makes it easier to rationalize the big box that just arrived from Furuno.
And did you have much trouble lifting the old one off?
I should have checked out your website before I ordered the ss one.
Due to my schedule I haven't installed mine yet and so I can't comment on how much trouble the old one is to lift off. Any gotchas I should be aware of?
I am out of town for the next three weeks so I won't get to it until late November.
Gatcha's:
Don't lift up on the forward end of the bowsprit in an attempt to break it free from the deck. Mine had gobs of 5200-like-stuff and a couple layers of paint binding it all together. When I lifted on the tip, followed by pulling down on the tip, followed by....
I eventually noticed that I was de-laminating the deck at the bow. That is, the top layer of fiberglass was lifting off the plywood core. It seems I had a lot of leverage out there on the end and was basically ripping the boat apart. Be more gentle to yours. Use something (putty knife, wire garrott, etc) to cut all the sealant from the wedge and drive all the bolts completely up and out of the deck before you try to lift off the bowsprit.
When you get it loose enough to move up and down, be sure you don't, on the down stroke, bend the strap on the bottom that connects the stay to the bow.
I was at the dock and had pulled in bow-first so I could work standing on the dock. Still I had tied a halyard to the tip of the bowsprit to support it. That turned out to be more trouble than it was worth.
The teak plank on the top, center, actually tabs into the ringband. That and glue is all that holds it in place.
The SS bowsprit might be heavier than the wooden one. I wouldn't be surprised. I wonder if Bud has that info?
I'm modifying my new one a little so it will be about 3/4" deeper than the original at the tip, but tapered back to the standard 5" height at the front of the wedge. I'm putting the ringband on the center of the bowsprit, not including the teak trim piece on the top. That will put the ringband 3/4" lower than the original.
So, Dave, where's your web site? We all should share our rebuild efforts so others know what they are getting into when they fall in love with an older boat.
Fair Winds
(or Clean Fuel)
Good site ! ;)