In taking off the cap rail and sealing the hull deck joint (no leaks yet, knock on polysulfide) I found the teak rails to be badly rotted.
Here's a picture of the underside of the cap rail board.
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Here's a picture of the underside of the cap rail board.
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Yesterday and today I sealed more of the hull-deck joint. I removed another section of teak toe-rail, about 6-ft on each side. That exposed the joint back from the bow to about 2-ft astern of the chainplates. Conveniently, there was a toe-rail joint just forward of the genoa track. That will have to removed before I can do more. And that's the hardest part of this little project. The tracks are through-bolted and I need someone on top with a screwdriver and someone inside with a socket on a very long extension to reach the nuts. Also, I have to disassemble more of the furniture inside Galena to get at the inside of the bulwarks.
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- Music:Hooverville - Another Sweet Dawn
I had already removed 10-ft of caprail on each bow and cleaned out the old caulk/sealant. I had been waiting for the polysulfide. Since I'm too cheap to buy a bunch of Boatlife Polysulfide, and since I really wanted to use a 2-part poly, I bought the stuff they use to seal highway expansion joints. I used Pecora's Synthacalk GC-2+ which is a "2-part, chemical resistant polysulfide sealant."
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I've got to make a decision on this:
Do I fill the joint with 2-part polysulfide sealant, as recommended in almost all references?
Or do I use fiberglass and resin and make the joint solid?
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I'm leaning toward the poly. Faster, easier to work with, more forgiving, proven track record, highly recommended..... Yeah, I'll probably go that route. But then again....
Do I fill the joint with 2-part polysulfide sealant, as recommended in almost all references?
Or do I use fiberglass and resin and make the joint solid?
( Read more... )
I'm leaning toward the poly. Faster, easier to work with, more forgiving, proven track record, highly recommended..... Yeah, I'll probably go that route. But then again....
- Mood:
confused
